Thick plumes of black smoke bellowed from the glass, epitomising the very essence of ‘burntness.’ Through the heavy smog came notes of rosemary and thyme and substantially charred wood coated with linseed oil. The palate was chewy and scorched, wrapping rich gravy around eminently maritime components that embraced fishing nets and fishermen’s rain coats in a ship’s engine room.

With water we found ourselves at the harbour sipping on cappuccinos among the lobster nets and fish baskets, as puffs of smoke from a tug boat blew in the sea air. The palate had sweetened and ventured into roasted chestnuts and toasted pine nuts, dotted with seaweed and a sprinkling of chimney soot.