Big plumes of dark grey smoke from the kiln combined with the Dutch spirit called Kummel, in this case a heavily smoked version of that famous herbal liqueur flavoured with caraway seeds, cumin, fennel and orris. We almost needed some ‘Dutch courage’ to have a taste, but after a kick of sooty chili and cremated pineapple there was that lovely sweetness of ash-rolled mango slices and peated peach cobbler.

With water we shovelled peat out of a brass-footed coal scuttle bucket onto the fire causing a massive puff of smoke which soon combined with the briny lemon sweetness and medicinal flavour of cod liver oil.