The scent transported us like magic into the old artist quarter of Paris in springtime. Montmartre with its lively, narrow, cobbled streets thronged with bistros, brasseries, cafes and artists getting out their easels and paint brushes.

We sat down at one of the cafes and to our surprise we found a Biedermeier Torte on the menu, a rich Austrian cake consisting of layers of dark and light sponge, cranberry and quince jam and a light nougat cream filling. Diluted, we ordered, along with the cake, a peppermint tea, lit up a Gauloises and found ourselves in a perfect position to watch the world go by.