On first impressions we felt this was a textbook, perfectly chiselled, sharp, citrus-accented example of this make. Pure peat smoke, sea salt crystals and raw lemon juice on an oyster. With water we found dried herbs such as sage, marjoram and oregano, then smoked sea salt, kelp and black olive bread.

The palate was oilier and heavier than anticipated on the nose. Big fat notes of farmyard, medical embrocations, pickling brine, malt vinegar and smoked olive oil. With reduction came smoked limoncello, citronella waxes, petrol, bacon fat and spicy umami broths. We also found boiler fumes, TCP and natural tar extracts. Superb!